Vatican Vistas

 The information for the guided tour of the Vatican Museum and St Peter’s Basilica that we had signed up for,  spoke encouragingly about beating the crowds with an early morning tour, and promised more time to view the masterpieces in a quieter atmosphere. So we left the hotel with a paper-bag breakfast in hand at 6:30 am, for the thirty minute walk beside the Tiber River, to the meeting point just outside Vatican City. 

Arriving at the appointed time of 07:15 at a random address on Viale Guilio Cesare. At first there was no-one there, but soon others arrived, also looking for the tour, and finally the guides appeared and handed out the requisite tickets, identifying stickers and audio sets. Our guide was very entertaining, beginning with some very strong opinions about what was wrong with the system which didn’t cap daily ticket sales, leading to long queues and delays in entering both the museum and the Basilica. 

Our entry to the museum was however quite prompt once the doors opened at 8, and soon security checks were complete and we were on our way to view the Pope’s personal collection of sculptures, tapestries and art works housed in extravagantly decorated galleries.  What we weren’t prepared for, as our tour progressed were the crowds.  The two hour tour of the museum was a comprehensive history of the Roman church, the papal system and the artists who were engaged to craft elaborate works and decor. 

The Sistene Chapel being closed due to the Conclave meeting to deliberate on the appointment of a new Pope, meant that this part of the tour had been dropped and all that was left was for our guide to escort us to St Peter’s Basilica where we could explore on our own.  

At the designated time of 10:30, we joined the throng outside the impressive columns marking the Basilica grounds. Groups with guides were assigned one entry lane and for everyone else it appeared to be a free-for-all, as people jostled and pushed through lines. Some even pushed there way through the guides lane, one man, purporting to be a guide rudely pushed past me, admonishing me to step aside as the space closest to the wall needed to be kept clear for people who can’t walk, although I pointed out that the crushing throng of people meant that I couldn’t move aside any further, he and his band of followers pushed past anyway - all walking without any problems. 

At 11:15 as we edged ever closer to the entry barriers, we were told that the gates were locked and no-one else was to enter as there were too many people in the Basilica. There was no indication as to when the gates might reopen, so we decided to give up on the idea of a Basilica visit.  Our guide then had to navigate us out of there - which was no mean feat, but we got there eventually. 

We were all hungry, tired and leg-weary so decided to find a place for lunch, a reviving drink and an opportunity to mull over the events of the morning.  It wasn’t until later that we realised that, at the point where we had decided to abandon the mission, we were not even half way to reaching the Basilica doors. 

After such an arduous morning, we all opted for various forms of rest and relaxation for the afternoon, until, feeling refreshed and rested, we reconvened as a group and set out to  find a suitable location for dinner.  It was a perfect evening and fairy lights drew us down cobblestone streets to a piazza, transformed from daytime market to nighttime restaurants.  Instead of marquees, tables with checkered table cloths now lined the square, men good-naturedly touting for business as we passed each trattoria.  

We settled on one and again enjoyed a range of delicious traditional Italian meals, great wine and pleasant conversation.  Following a leisurely meal, Keely the youngest member of our group, guided us all to ‘Two Sizes’ a tiny shop selling what is purported to be the best Tiramisu in Rome.  We were all willing to test that theory and I don’t think there was any dissent, judging by the array of empty  bowls.  

We ended our last night in Rome, wandering laneways strung with fairy lights and accommodating tiny restaurants where cars drove between the rows of tables on either side of the narrow street.  

Rome has been a magical experience steeped in history and beauty.  I’m still pinching myself as I just can’t believe I am here.