Dreaming of a White Christmas

Dusseldorf

I wasn’t up and going very quickly this morning. I am still trying to shake this bug, which has sapped some of my energy. Another of our group has come down with it and Wallsy is still slightly worried by an ongoing cough. Fingers crossed all will be well. We have turned the corner, and the end of the holiday is in sight now, so we just need to get everyone home safely. One more night on board, then 2 in Frankfurt and we will be in the air, winging our way home to the warm sunshine and a very different Christmas atmosphere to the one we have experienced here.

Wallsy and I disembarked at about 9:30 and walked the two kilometres into Dusseldorf Old Town, meant to be a 5-minute walk away, which would have facilitated coming and going to the ship during the day, however, water levels meant that we couldn’t dock according to the original plan, so we had a pleasant, longer stroll instead in conditions that were comfortable and not cold. I’ve hardly needed the warm, woolly hat, scarf or gloves since leaving Cologne.

The Christmas markets which were scattered around the Old Town, didn’t open until 11, so it was pleasant wandering the streets before the crowds descended. We found the Tourist Information, which was open for business, and collected a map detailing a 60-minute self-guided walking tour of the area. Much to my horror, Wallsy decided we must begin at point number 8 which was closest to the Tourist office, and then go backwards to 7, as the ‘musical clock’ would chime at 11, but not again until 1. I struggled with the concept of not beginning at the beginning, but conceded and went along with the plan.

We never did find number 8, which was a mustard museum (!) and set off instead for the musical clock before it chimed, however, this proved more difficult than expected. When we eventually found it (after I briefly took control of the map) we realised we had walked past it already, but it wasn’t obvious until we approached from the opposite direction. We waited the two minutes for the wooden man to appear from behind the wooden doors in the clock and play a couple of rousing Christmas Carols, before disappearing again. It was slightly underwhelming, but quirky and with no further information available about its significance, we moved on, past the brass statue of the lucky Tailor who had very shiny knees where people had rubbed him for luck, walking in the direction of the apparently famous Carlsplatz Markt – the city’s most important market square selling fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, bread and specialty goods – it is however closed on a Sunday, we discovered.

Nearby, was a museum, according to our tour map, so we ventured forth to find that instead. On the way we stumbled upon a green space with a meandering waterway, featuring some rather large geese happily floating along. Having explored this small park to our satisfaction, we made our way back to the museum, and as it was ‘free Sunday’ we wandered in. It was an interesting collection of relics, paintings and historical documents pertaining to the history of Dusseldorf, and very large. We spent about an hour exploring only two floors, before deciding we had seen enough and needed some lunch.

I was determined to try a traditional schnitzel while in Germany, and had a seen a restaurant offering just this, on our way through the old town. Retracing our footsteps we found it again and wandered in. Lured by the promise of broccoli with the meal, I ordered the ‘natural’ schnitzel, which much to my surprise, was not a crumbed, thin schnitzel, but a thick, char-grilled veal steak. It was, however, quite tasty and the large piece of broccoli and some baked potatoes (there are potatoes with everything here, sometimes done 3 ways!) temporarily satisfied my craving for vegetables. Stephen’s ‘Weiner Schnitzel’ was the normal crumbed offering we are used to but came with fries and an over-dressed salad. I later found out that a traditional German Schnitzel is pork, not veal, anyway!

Following lunch, we walked to the Schifffahrtsmuseum (Maritime Museum) back to point 2 of the self-guided tour, which had by now taken us much longer than 60 minutes. This museum was contained in the only remaining tower of the original Dusseldorf Castle and wound its way up the tower from below ground level to a fifth level containing a café and 360-degree views. Each level had interesting and interactive information which was well-displayed and curated, complete with English translations. We were impressed, especially as ‘free Sunday’ applied here as well. We made our way into the café seeking a coffee and post-lunch cake, however the young man who seemed to be taking orders, making orders, delivering orders and accepting payments without any help, was so overwhelmed that we decided not to stay.

Next, was the Water Level Clock on the Rhine bank, which apparently tells both the time and the water level, although as it wasn’t even telling the correct time, we didn’t have much faith in it telling us an accurate water level. It wasn’t even clear how it did this and again, there was a lack of information. As the sun had come out and the sky was clear, we decided to enjoy a ride on the big wheel before walking back to the boat. We shared a pod on the wheel with two Irish couples and had a very entertaining and chatty time with them. We also enjoyed some beautiful river and city views.

We wandered back to the ship and settled on the sundeck with a drink to watch the sun go down over Dusseldorf and the lights come on in the town. As it cools very quickly once the sun disappears however, we didn’t linger long, and soon sought the warmth of the lounge to await dinner before returning to the lounge for coffee, the excitement of the final night Tombola (raffle draw), before returning to our cabins to pack and settle in for our final night on board. All in all, despite the change of destinations, this cruise has been generally a more positive experience than the first, although lacking the snow and magical weather. It just goes to show, you can only have some of the things, some of the time, and if travel teaches you anything, it is how to be flexible, deal with the unexpected and enjoy yourself anyway.

It is 10:30 pm as I finish this, and we are just underway, back to our starting point in Cologne.