Dreaming of a White Christmas - Day 9

Road Trip

 

I was gradually woken by the awareness that my phone was ringing this morning. Even though it was on silent, the incessant vibration from across the room eventually penetrated my sleep. It was of course, an unknown number, but I figured as I was up, I may as well get dressed ready for the day as we had an earlier start to prepare for.


Following the hotel breakfast at 7, we returned to our rooms to collect our hats, coats, scarves and gloves, all of which are very much an essential part of our uniform each day, and set off for the designated meeting point for Gray Line transport which would convey us to a distant village called Cesky Krumlov. It was a 25-minute walk on deserted streets to the pick-up point. Gone were the crowds from last night and gone was the snow which had been falling throughout the evening.


We eventually discovered the location and waited patiently for the ‘bus’ to appear. A few other people also arrived, some of whom were  going to Cesky Krumlov, and a couple who were expecting a tour to Vienna. Apparently however the Vienna tour wasn’t going ahead due to overnight storms, much to the disgust of the Californians, who apparently hadn’t received the cancellation email. They refused the offer of the Cesky Krumlov trip instead and stormed off.

 

There was another Aussie who joined our group, and we were quickly allocated to Vladimir’s 8-seater van and set off on the two-hour drive. Stephen, who is not well was ensconced in the back corner, mask firmly in place. The others, Spaniards, were all in a second van with the chief guide, ours was a younger man, obviously in training. The drive, broken only by a service station toilet and refuel stop, was through the white landscape we have become accustomed to, visibility decreasing the further we travelled from Prague.


We finally arrived in the quaint town of Cesky Krumlov, known for its remarkable 13th Century castle set in an 11-hectare garden, and its panoramic views of the old town, soon after 11. The more experienced tour leader proceeded to walk us through the cobbled streets, giving us a potted history of the area as we went, and occasionally coaching young Vladimir to add some information. Finally, we reached the medieval castle, so different from our concept of what a castle looks like, but a strong fortification nevertheless, with a strange mix of architectural styles, encompassing Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods, and decorations.


Stopping at each of the photo points that were indicated by our guide, we obediently took our photos (we weren’t game enough to not do as he suggested!). We continued walking over treacherously icy streets - if you managed to walk without your feet slipping out from beneath you, it seemed you were still in mortal danger from ice and snow sliding off the rooftops above, and then there were the cars that intermittently sped down the narrow streets forcing you to press your body against the wall of whichever house or business you were passing at the time.


We were led to our lunch venue where we followed obediently downstairs and through low-roofed rooms into what had once been the animal byre. Here there were tables set for us and we were served food and wine, or another drink of choice (as long as you chose, beer, coke, or water). Despite a conversation with our guide where I assured him that the garlic sauce which was supposed to accompany the lunch of baked chicken, potato and lettuce would be fine, but I couldn’t eat paprika, cayenne pepper or chilli, something got lost in the translation - no-one was served the garlic sauce and the first mouthful of chicken told me it was coated with paprika - at least I could eat the potato and lettuce!
After being taken to yet another photo point, we were given about 3/4 of an hour of free time to wander the Christmas Market in the town square, and other shops. Our supply of Czech Crowns was depleted after having to pay for meals in restaurants that either wouldn’t split the bill or wouldn’t accept card yesterday, so Wallsy and I opted for a quiet coffee in a bistro that accepted payment in Euros, until it was again time to meet up with our guides and continue the journey.


On the way back to Prague, we were taken to another small town called Ceske Budejovice and dropped in the town square where the Christmas Market was in full swing. We enjoyed watching the ice skating in the centre of the square and a couple of owls which you could have sit on your hand if you paid and put on the glove provided. This seemed like a unique thing to do at a Christmas Market. It was also evident that this was a market, not designed for tourists, but for the townsfolk to enjoy themselves.


Again we clamboured into the vehicles and resumed our trip back to Prague as darkness enveloped us at the early hour of 4:30pm! It was about 6pm when we reached our hotel and we opted to dine in the restaurant downstairs. It was amazing to order and eat a complete meal of gnocchi, chicken and broccoli without any issues,  before tackling our packing in readiness to move on again tomorrow.

 

Prague has been an absolute delight and the small towns of Southern Bohemia we visited today were equally exceptional. Prague is on my ‘definitely must return to’ list and I would love to stay in the quirky U Zlateho Stromu again.

 


View of Cesky Krumlov from castle

Cesky Krumlov castle and tower

Ice skating in Ceske Budejovice town square

Farewell to Prague from Charles Bridge



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