Coast to Coast UK - Glenridding to Shap

If I was to summarise the recurring themes of this hike to date, there would be three: steep ascents; magnificent views; rain, sometimes all at once, although the rain does tend to disrupt the magnificent views somewhat.

Today was no exception to the rule, we again experienced all three of these phenomena.

During our research we had read how steep and treacherous the highest peak on the Coast to Coast, Kidsty Pike, could be in bad weather and poor visibility. As always, there were alternative routes offered should the weather threaten to be unsuitable. The route with the most appeal for us, was the one that, instead of joining the Coast to Coast path at Patterdale, took walkers to Pooley Bridge, up and over Askham Fell and through the Lowther Valley to Shap.

We could walk the 10 miles from Glenridding to Pooley Bridge, or we could catch the steamer up the lake to begin the day’s hike. There was no question as to which was Wallsy’s preferred option. So tickets on the 0945 steamer out of Glenridding had been booked. The rain began before we left the Ullswater Inn, so we dressed in our wet-weather gear again and set off to the steamer pier.

One of the other couples we had crossed paths with at the Grisedale Tarn yesterday had also taken the same option and we chatted on the jetty. After a leisurely hour-long, scenic boat ride we arrived in Pooley Bridge. Crossing the new composite stainless steel and concrete bridge, erected since the destruction of the original 1764 stone bridge during Storm Desmond in 2015, we meandered through village streets until we began to head uphill out of the built-up area and onto Askham Fell.

The weather up there was bleak, the rain blowing into our faces as we reached the top, and the wind constantly removing the hood of my rain jacket. With the beautiful view of Ullswater behind us, gradually merging into the mist we forged ahead onto the stark, but interesting fell environment. Our first brief stop was to admire The Highstreet, as the old Roman road crossing the fell is known. This road is believed to have linked Roman forts at Galava, Ambleside and Brocavum, and is marked, on Aksham Fell with a signpost and stone seat, in recognition of both the Roman engineers, and the hardworking ’navvies’ who built and patrolled this route in what is a harsh environment on the best of days.

Leaving both High Street and any views of the lake behind, we continued across the fell and down into the Lowther Valley towards the village of Bampton, here we entered farmland, with its trademark stonewalls and narrow laneways. The remainder of the walk would be on roads, the first section of which was quite busy, and we were constantly jumping off into the grass and brambles to avoid oncoming traffic. Some slow down when they see you, some acknowledge the fact that you have dived off the road with a wave, others (a minority) continue to drive quite fast as they pass, sometimes anointing you with any water on the road as a result.

The continuing rain had meant we hadn’t had a stop for ‘first lunch’, so Bampton became our goal, and as we had been walking for 2 1/2 hours already, we were looking forward to the fact that this village boasted a coffee shop and in fact a pub, one of which I felt sure would also involve a toilet. Alas, the Bampton coffee shop and general store, once also the Post Office, had closed at 1pm – it was 1:30 when we arrived, wet, thirsty and desperate! The pub, over the quaint bridge showed no signs of opening, so it was back to the Bampton Village Garden, a pocket handkerchief sized area, with a stone fence and a couple of benches beside the beck.

The garden provided a welcome break, the rain had eased enough to make eating our sandwiches possible, and we enjoyed the burbling of the Cawdale Beck beside us as we rested. But all too soon it was time to press on towards Shap, again on country roads, but much less travelled ones, which meant there wasn’t as much need for our diving skills. There were beautiful wildflower meadows on the way, and I tried in vain to photograph a big fat bumble bee who was plying his trade among the flowers, but he was much too fast for me, refusing to stay long enough on any one flower for me to focus and get a decent photo.

Eventually, Rosegill Bridge came into view. This was the point where we met the actual Coast to Coast path again, the one that had taken walkers up and over Kidsty Pike and along the shores of Haweswater, we opted not to go ahead with the marked route, on this side of the bridge however, but to instead cross Rosegill Bridge and take a more direct public path towards Shap Abbey and finally, the village of Shap. This, although definitely more direct, involved a long walk across soggy farmer’s fields containing a blend of cows and sheep, the cows always showing great interest in trespassers like us.

Having survived the encounters with the cows, skilfully avoided stepping in any cow pats, worked out how to open each of the gates and then scaled the stile at the end of the obstacle course, we popped out on the road that leads between Shap Abbey and Shap Village. The impressive Abbey ruins are tucked away in the valley beside the River Lowther with the main remaining part of the structure being the west tower. We turned finally towards Shap Village with its long main street, and began the final trek, to locate our accommodation in The Kings Arms. Again a lovely, comfortable room and hot shower awaited us, followed by a delicious meal in the dining area downstairs. All our hosts have been most welcoming and helpful – a great respite at the end of a long day.

My greatest realisation today, is that road walking is much more tiring on the feet and legs than walking on a fell track, or even across a slushy field. The navigation app failed to record all of our walk today, I think because we deliberately strayed from the designated route when we chose to cross Rosgill Bridge, but the total distance walked was approximately10 miles which took us 5 ½ hours to achieve, including our one and only lunch break, and the usual stops to take photos, read information, and take layers of clothing on an off according to the condition. An average of 2mph is what we have come to expect when not climbing.