Coast to Coast UK - Grasmere to Glenridding

May 27, 2024

We were back on the track today and it threw a little bit of everything at us, but we both agreed it was probably the most enjoyable day of our walk so far.

There was a brief shower of rain as we walked over Goody Bridge on the way out of Grasmere this morning, enough to force Wallsy to down his pack and don his overpants and rain jacket, however it didn’t last long and we were soon trudging up the steep ascent feeling a little too warm, but reluctant to stop again to remove layers, knowing there was more rain forecast.

Although the ascent was steep, it was a generally well-made section of track and the reward, the higher we got, was magnificent views back over the Easedale Valley. Every time I looked back, as we gained elevation, the light had changed, making each view photo-worthy. Of course, admiring the scenery also provides an important opportunity to rest burning calf muscles and catch your breath.

The track became increasingly rocky as we left Tongue Gill and travelled along the side of the steep fell before reaching Hause Gap between Seat Sandal and Fairfield, and our first view of Grisedale Tarn. It was a relief to see the tarn after 2 ½ hours of walking, the false summit we had reached half an hour before, had revealed nothing but a view of marshy swampland and the rocky ridge of the track winding up the side of the next hill.

We placed our sit mats on a suitable rock and opened the lunch that the kitchen staff at Glenthorne had made for us, eating with enthusiasm. There had been many people on the track this morning, several carrying their houses on their backs, many with canine companions, all of which seemed to be adept mountain climbers, and each of them eventually overtaking us, usually with a friendly hello, or brief snippet of conversation before continuing.

Lunch finished, we headed down around the side of the tarn to its water source, a rather wide and fast flowing stream dotted with large, slippery stepping stones. We made sure our phones were in waterproof bags and secured in pockets, just to be sure, but made it carefully across without any disasters. At this point, as we rounded the fell into the next valley, the rain and wind hit.

The track was treacherous, rocky, washed out, running with water, and rain blurred our vision, but we worked our way steadily down to reach Ruthwaite Lodge a climbing hut, restored in memory of two climbers who lost their lives on Mt Cook, NZ. Unfortunately the hut is kept locked, perhaps it’s just a summer thing, but it certainly wasn’t available for shelter today, although we could have used it. We took a break against its sturdy stone wall instead, having a second lunch of crisps and juice, while we looked longingly through the rain, to the distant rays of sunshine at the end of the valley, with the sounds of the crashing waterfalls of Grisedale Beck providing the background music.

As we climbed down the valley, the weather gradually improved, and so did the track, until, according to Wallsy, it actually deserved the title of ‘track’. It was a pleasant walk past Crossing Plantation and Elmhow Plantation, and some delightful farms with more cute sheep, eventually ending in Glenridding and our home for the night, by 4pm. Reading the AllTrails description of this section of track this evening, I could only agree that:

There are very rough and step sections on this trail where great care is needed with footing. This route is therefore best attempted in calm, clear and dry conditions.

Lucky Wallsy hadn’t read that before we set out, he may have headed straight for the bus stop!

The Ullswater Inn, where we are staying, was apparently flooded twice, back in the December of 2015 thanks to Storm Desmond, but has since been renovated and is now a thriving pub, close to the shore of the glacial lake known as Ullswater. Our room has a view of the lake and once we were settled in our spacious room, we went downstairs for a welcome coffee before going for a wander through the village and down to the jetty, just in time to see the steamer which plies the lake from end to end throughout the day, come in to dock.

Although the track had its challenges, and the weather provided another dimension to these, we were both happy with the day and had found it a satisfying and enjoyable experience.