Coast to Coast UK - Onwards and Upwards

May 22, 2024

We have received a baptism of water on reaching St Bees, the starting point for the Coast to Coast walk. The perfect Lakeland weather we have enjoyed since arriving in Coniston has transformed dramatically.

It had in fact begun to rain before we left Bank Ground Farm this morning and continued to do so throughout the day. We had to drive the hire car back to Preston, and then board a train - two trains in fact - to St Bees, back in the western Lake District. This was a strange, roundabout way to ensure we had a car for the five days in the Lakes, which we then of course, didn’t need for the ongoing adventure.

It was a 90-minute drive back to Preston, and thanks to Wallsy’s system of precision timetabling, we were at the station with half an hour to spare (just time for a coffee and a muffin) before the train to Barrow-in-Furness departed at 11:44. The train trip was a little over an hour and we arrived punctually, with just enough time to transit between platforms and settle ourselves on the train which would take us on to St.Bees. This trip too was just over an hour in length, and I had been looking forward to the coastal views promised by the proximity of the line to the seashore. I am sure it would have been a picturesque ride, had we been able to see beyond the rain.

We arrived in St. Bees on time and after waiting for the train to clear the station so we could cross the road, we found our accommodation, literally a stone’s throw away. We arrived at the same time as 6 other pilgrims, as we had all disembarked from the same train. Disconcertingly, there didn’t seem to be anyone to greet us and check us in, however a quick phone call made by one of the non-international travellers, quickly solved that problem and the lovely Carol opened the door to admit us all to Stonehouse Farm B&B.

It was cosy and thankfully dry inside, and we were quickly settled in our lovely room at the top of the first flight of stairs. We had however, planned to walk out to the start of the Coast to Coast Path and then around the headland past the lighthouse today, enabling us to join the track further inland tomorrow, as a means of shortening an otherwise 23km day. As it was only 3pm we went ahead as planned, found the starting marker and set off up the track that follows the headland, part of the English Coast Path.

Tradition demands you either dip your toe in the Irish Sea before you start or take a pebble from the beach to carry with you, but the tide was so far out, neither of these rituals were possible. We settled for a photo in front of the marker instead. The path up to the cliff top was quite muddy and flowing with water in parts. It crossed through farm fields full of inquisitive cows and sheep that looked at us questioningly. The viewing point across the Irish Sea from which you are supposed to be able to see to the Isle of Man revealed nothing but grey ocean, the Isle lost in the mist.

If there was a lighthouse on the headland, it was well hidden in fog and we finally turned back after an hour of trekking, deeming the cliff tops too dangerous in such conditions. Back in the B&B we sorted our packs for tomorrow, put tags on our luggage in the hope that it reaches tomorrow night’s hotel ahead of us, and headed three doors up the road for dinner at one of only two pubs in town, The Queens.

Dinner was delicious. I enjoyed lamb shank, mash and real broccoli, carrot and beans. It was exciting to enjoy a meal with lots of fresh vegetables – always the thing I miss most when travelling and eating out a lot. Stephen had a Wagyu burger and some of my veggies! Back in the room we have studied the guidebook and the maps for tomorrow’s section of the walk and feel somewhat confident that we know where we are going.

Time will tell!