Coast to Coast UK - St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

May 23, 2024

I’ve resigned myself to wet feet. Yesterday, our walk out to the St Bees headland led to wet feet, due to my waterproof overpants channelling all the water down into my socks. There are two lessons to take away from this: 1. Don’t tighten the bottom of the overpants when wearing them with shoes rather than boots and, 2. Wear gaiters when it is raining. So, although we had a cosy night in St Bees, it was not cosy enough for my boots to dry out which meant I had a head start on wet socks today, heightened by the relentless rain.

We were down for breakfast at 0730, our cases had to be in the front room ready for collection by 0830, which all meant we were on the road and rearing to go by 20 to 9. We first had a brief stop to make at the St Bees station for a photo with the original Coast to Coast book joining us on the track, at the request of our good friends from Adelaide, who have repeated the walk on a number of occasions.

Having walked the beach and the headland already, we had the opportunity to shave some 3.7miles (almost 6kms) off today’s walk, and we were able to follow Wood Lane to lead us out of town and onto the Coast to Coast path, avoiding what we later learnt, was a gusty and slippery trek down the headland from the lighthouse.

Wood Lane, a designated public ‘footpath’, so the sign said, soon became a squelch through farm paddocks, a slide through slushy woodland paths and a wade across miniature lakes where there were meant to be paths. The first gate we came to needed some repair, so Wallsy obliged, but every gate and stile is an exercise in problem solving and gymnastics, as you try to understand the trick to either opening it (the gate) or crossing it (the stile). Some stiles must have been constructed by very long-legged people. I’m sure the farmers try and outdo each other in designing the most complex gate closing system and the trickiest stile they can think of.

It was with relief we rejoined the Coast to Coast path at the point where it converged with the National Cycle Network, enabling us to enjoy some paved path walking, and even some shelter from the incessant rain, under a road bridge, where we had morning tea, or first lunch! The packed lunch provided by the accommodation consisted of two sandwiches, a large slice of flapjack, a bag of crisps, a piece of fruit and a fruit box drink. All very nice and much appreciated.

It was while we were enjoying first lunch that we were caught up by another Aussie who stayed in the same B&B as us last night. We exchanged pleasantries and he left the track to seek a hot drink in Moor Row, while we continued on the cycle route until we had to turn left towards Cleator, much to Wallsy’s disappointment – he would happily do the whole Coast to Coast on the cycle route (preferably on an e-bike).

Owing to the wet weather and steep slippery descent from Dent Fell, we had made the call, to avoid these higher areas of the track today and opted instead to take the roadways from Cleator, up to Wath Bridge (where we had second lunch standing on the roadside under the shelter of a tree), and then onto Ennerdale Bridge, a designated wet-weather option. I’m not sure the road was the safest alternative, but it was certainly a less slippery route. Our Aussie friend, Lyndon, reported that he had found Dent Fell very slick in parts, nevertheless, he again caught up with us on the last stretch into Ennerdale, having completed more miles than us for the day.

We reached the Shepherds Arms in good time, around 3pm, making it about a 5 ½ hour walk, over a total of 10.74 miles, or 17.28 km. It felt good to arrive, even better to have a hot shower, and exciting to have someone offer to take all our wet gear, boots included, and place them in the drying room overnight. I am excited for dry boots in the morning. We have enjoyed another delicious meal and we are now relaxing in our comfortable room, having studied and discussed tomorrow’s route.