Via Dell’Amore

Today was a relaxed day to explore the villages of Cinque Terre, but first we had to navigate the complicated pass system that operates around walking trails and trains. The Explora store were helpful in trying to explain it all to us, but passes can only be purchased at the train station, so off we went. 

Our two younger members decided to tackle the high route from Manarola to Corniglia, as this is not in the National Park, so required no pass and no payment. The lower coastal route between these two villages is closed due to landslide. The rest of us went with the gentler option of walking the newly reopened Via Dell’Amore between Manarola and Riomaggiore (it was closed and under reconstruction for 12 years)  At the station the pass options were explained to us, but we still failed to understand the complicated system so we simply paid the 15.50 euros each for the privilege of walking this short route. In the high season there is timed entry and a one way system, but that doesn’t apply at the moment. 

By the time we got the necessary QR codes and bought our passes it was 11:30!  Luckily it is only a short, but beautiful coastal walk. A snack of bruschetta (the tomatoes here are the freshest and most flavoursome I have ever tasted) and a coffee, was in order when we reached Riomaggiore and then we set our to explore which involved going down many flights of steps to the village marina at the end of the main street, and then walking up the steep village street to reach the castle at the top. The castle was nothing special, but the views were worth the climb. 

Having navigated Riomaggiore and its many steps, we returned to the path and walked back to Manarola in perfect sunshine with a light sea breeze.  Back in town, we made some food purchases at the mini market as of course the Co-op was closed for siesta between one and five, and then readied ourselves for a sunset boat cruise. 

Down, down, down into town we went again, this time all the way to the boat harbour where we met Tony, our captain,  whose job it was to take us past each of the five villages in the evening light while plying us with much alcohol and a little food!  We would return to Manarola as the sun set. 

We were joined by a couple and their adult daughter from California, who didn’t know what they had struck with a boat load of Australian women, however they played along and joined in the raucous singing good-naturedly as we travelled past the  5 Terre and back, with the spectacle of setting sun behind us. Occasionally Tony tried to give us some snippets of interesting historical and geographical information, but there seemed to be little interest in this as the night wore on, the prosecco corks popped and the singing became louder.  

It was a beautiful and fun evening but we did tackle the hill back to the top of the village with less gusto  than we had come down a few hours earlier.  

















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